Unlike many of his contemporaries, David Chang has tended to be a cautious incrementalist when it comes to playing the great boom-and-bust game of restaurant-empire-building. While other prominent New York chefs ping-pong around the landscape, opening cookie-cutter fine-dining outlets in far-off fast-money destinations like Hong Kong, Vegas, and Dubai, he's mostly been content to stay close to home, tending to his own little gastronomic Yoknapatawpha County in the East Village.
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