Review: Kitchen 79 Offers Southern Thai Dishes Unseen in NYC

For the last few years New Yorkers have been obsessing on Isaan food from Thailand's impoverished northeast, an area dominated by the Mekong River and influenced by the neighboring cuisines of Laos and Cambodia. Its most prominent contribution to the Siamese menu are the shredded green-papaya salads called somtams, but there are also beef and pork jerkies, ground-meat salads, an appreciation of sticky rice, barbecued chickens, and stir-fries highlighting river catfish, duck, and pork.

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